The food industry has already wrung every drip of meaning out of the word “organic”—is “local” the next victim?
On Tuesday, Frito-Lay launched a new marketing campaign that positions their potato chips as local food, focusing on the 80 “local” farmers in 27 states that grow its taters. The Lay’s website even features a “Chip Tracker” that tells you which factory your bag of chips was processed in. “Chances are,” the site says, “it may be closer than you think.”
Maybe it is—but that’s SO not the point. The local food movement is based on the idea of knowing more about where your food comes from. It’s about having a stronger relationship with the people who grow or raise it. It’s about eating food that’s in season, grown on a diversified farm without massive use of pesticides.
It most certainly does NOT mean food processed in factories (even if they are only two hours away), sourced from farms in more than half the states in this union, grown in massive monocultures, and stuffed with all sorts of preservatives and additives that extend shelf life far beyond any natural expiration period.
The director of public relations for Frito-Lay North America had this to say to the New York Times:
“Local for us has two appeals. We are interested in quality and quickness because we want consumers to get the freshest product possible, but we have a fairly significant sustainability program, and local is part of that. We want to do business more efficiently, but do it in a more environmentally conscious way.”
She forgot to mention the third, most obvious appeal: there’s a growing market for local food that Frito-Lay would like to tap into.
As a foodie who loves potato chips, I can’t help but see this campaign as anything but an epic masquerade. Frito-Lay’s target is obviously not the real locavores, who have already spoken out on the absurdity of it. No—their marketing team is smarter than that. They are aiming for people who are becoming more conscious about their eating habits but haven’t yet learned how to find food outside of the aisles of the supermarket. This campaign is a thinly veiled and poorly thought-out attempt at duping shoppers into thinking they’re making a healthier, more sustainable choice.
Will it work? Let’s hope not. So far, the campaign hasn’t jumped off to a great start: at this very moment, a Twitter search for the word “Frito” returns tweets about greenwashing, co-opting and spin. But if history is any test, Big Food is well on its way to repurposing a once meaningful, grassroots term.
Michael Pollan said it best today on Democracy Now!, referring to, among other similar attempts by the food industry, Frito-Lay’s new campaign:
“The language of sustainability and the critique of industrial food is being picked up by some of the major players within industrial food, either as an effort to co-opt the rhetoric or simply confuse the consumer and the citizen … I think what we see here is another example of the food industry’s ingenuity in taking any critique of industrial food and turning it into the next marketing strategy.”
Memo to Frito-Lay: if you really want to do it right, start by examining your product and the way you source its inputs, and look for ways to encourage safer, more environmentally sound agriculture. (And no, your compostable bag made from what I can only imagine is subsidized commodity-crop corn does not count.)
And, really, come on. Don’t pretend to be local. That’s like telling us your chips are “home-cooked” simply because there is a house down the road from your factory.
Some things just can’t be adapted to corporate, industrial food. Local is one of them.